Istanbul - The New City

After breakfast we took the tram across the Golden Horn and to the end of the line in the New City.  From there we took an underground funicular up to Taksim Square at the top of Istikal Caddesi, and started the back down the pedestrian only street.  Jeff quickly and aptly declared the New City less charming than the old.  It basically looked like a busy street in any major city, seemingly without much character.  We set off walking at a rather quick pace since it didn’t seem there was much to see.  When we finally looked back to see where mom was, she was waving the Rick Steves book at us, telling us that we had missed most of the important sites because we were walking so quickly.  We backtracked a little to the famous Turkish delight candy stop (Haci Bekir) and started reading the guide about what we were passing.  Mom was right...it got much more interesting when we knew what we were walking by.  This is an area where real Turks go out to shop, to eat, and to be seen.  There were lots of local delicacies to try and though we all skipped the sheep intentines, Kat and Jeff got some fried mussels on a stick that she said were "the best things she’s ever had".  She wasn’t so lucky with the buns that reminded her of China Town but where very dry. 

We made it about half-way down the street when Mom started talking about a place for lunch, mainly so she could sit down for a bit.  Kat had in her mind that a restaurant that she had read about in a different guide book was very close by and started asking people for the Joseph Lodi Café – but no one had any idea what she was talking about.  (Later she discovered she remembered wrong - it was the Pierre Lodi Café and it was about seven miles from where we were looking!) We got down to the end of the walk, where we had the option of getting into a second funicular to take us all the way down to the water.  At that point Jeff took control and found a restaurant that was still further downhill that we could walk to – so we skipped the funicular and kept walking.  Though the walk was entirely downhill, it  was very steep and long and the cobblestones made for difficult walking.  It was hard on Mom’s knees and she was more and more ready with each step to find a place to sit.  On the way down the hill, we stopped under the Galata Tower to take a picture or two and then continued down to the very bottom of the very steep hill.  At the very bottom, Kat asked where we could find the restaurant and were informed it was back up the hill, right where we had stopped at the Galato Tower…mom made it clear she was NOT walking back up that hill, so we hopped on the tram and went back to the Old Town.   Mom reached her limit in front of a cozy café so we just sat there and had a nice lunch.    

We went into a store that sells books in English and mom bought a mystery by a woman who is touted as the Donna Leon of Istanbul.  The enthusiastic book seller sold me a couple of books set in Istanbul as well.  When we got back to the hotel, Mom rested while Kat and Jeff went down to an art market and then back up to the Blue Mosque where Kat finished her book and Jeff sketched.  I worked on getting us caught up on the blog. 

Jeff was determined to get another Turkish Bath on his last night in town, and Kat and I were happy to go along for the ride.  This time we went to the Omer-recommended bath house Cemberlitas Hamami.  It was very different, more spa-like, than our first time and we splurged for the additional 30-minute oil massage that was well worth it.   We met mom back at the fountain between Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque and went to dinner at an Ottoman Kitchen where it is all out there for you to see and choose.  The food was actually really good.  We repeated our baklava and tea on the tables outside of our hotel before going inside to pack up and get ready to wake up 3 hours later to get to the airport for a very early morning flight.  

As I finish writing this I am on the plane heading back to California with mixed emotions after more than two months away.  This has been an incredible and unforgettable experience (especially since I managed to record it all so I won't forget)!   Thanks for following along on our adventure!!!!