Marostica: The City of Chess and Cherries

My three navigators (two girls plus a gps) guided us to the small medieval town of Marostica just over an hour away, most famous for the huge chess board set into the town square where they play a game of human chess every other September.  Though we aren't going to be in Italy to see a game played in full regalia, the trip to see the board and the town's castles was well worth it!

Queen Julia

Knight Rachel

Legend has it that the games began in 1454 when two men fell in love with the daughter of  Lord of the Castle of Marostica and challenged each other to a duel.  In accordance with Venetian Law, the Lord forbade the duel, but determined that the winner of a chess game could have his daughter's hand in marriage (and the loser could have the younger sister). Reenactments of this event are repeated just as the first time with sumptuous costumes, parades, and exquisite elegance. Rachel decided to add it to her list of life goals to get back to Marostica to see this live.  I hope I can join her!

Marostica has two castles that are connected by walls surrounding the city, starting at the lower castle and going straight up to the upper castle on both sides.  We entered the town through the gates to the lower castle and walked right out onto the town square chessboard.  We had lunch in a little restaurant right on the square while waiting for tourist information to open back up at 3:00.  There we were told that there were three paths to get to the upper castle - a road to drive up, a steep path heading right off the center of the square straight up to it, or a less steep path that starts just outside the city walls and goes up the back side. Not being able to resist that challenge, we took off straight up the hill - and she was right - it was steep.  It also seemed to suddenly get very hot and humid at that exact moment...it was quite a climb!  The views from the top were magnificent and we enjoyed exploring the ruins of the castle. We decided to take the "less steep" path back down but if it was actually less steep it was only slightly so as our aching toes let us know as they tried to pop out of the front of our shoes.  Definitely some good exercise and in a beautiful location - really hard to complain.


When we got back down to level ground, we went back to the lower castle and had a choice of touring the castle or seeing an art exhibition - we did not have time to do both.  As should come as no surprise, we didn't all agree on which was the better use of the time, so we headed in different directions...in case it isn't obvious, Julia went to the art museum and Rachel and I went into the castle.  I could have gone either way, but the main draw of the castle for me was the display of the costumes they wear during the human chess match.  There is also a bell on the third floor and we were told we could make a wish and ring the bell one time...I know what I wished for and wonder if Rachel wished the same thing.  Julia enjoyed seeing the art of Cosroe Dusi.  We needed to go home, but before we we left we had to try the gelato of Maristoca (very good!) and learned that the town is also famous for its cherries.  So sad to have missed the annual cherry festival in June, but we picked up some cherry caramels and cherry jam.  

We had to get home to change because we were going to dinner with a guy Jim works with, his girlfriend, and his 13-year-old son.  We were to meet Luigi, Miriam, and Francesco for happy hour drinks in the town square of Mirano and then go for pizza, but our trusty GPS failed us taking us to the middle of a cornfield, so we missed the happy hour and went right for the pizza - to a place they love that sells pizza by the meter.  Francesco's favorite is french fry pizza and the girls were happy to be a part of that order.   The adults ordered a variety of toppings and it was all delicious.  More importantly, the company was great and I got to ask the questions of real Italians I have been wondering.  They don't think their schedule is all that late - nothing like the Spanish!  Meanwhile, by the time we went to get gelato at their favorite place it was already 11:30 pm but the place was still hopping on a Wednesday night.  We had a very nice time being with them and look forward to dining with them again in Venice in a couple of weeks.